Hidden Navarre: A land of lush green valleys and ancestral traditions.
Navarre has something for everyone: Scenic beauty, exquisite cuisine, an epic history and culture in spades. This region is a revelation for nature lovers, art enthusiasts and anyone who enjoys a good meal. Explore the enigmas of its ancient caves, treat weary limbs to a soak in its healing waters, enjoy a collection of abstract sculpture at an open-air museum and sample the most incredible hazelnut chocolate you’re ever likely to taste. And if that sounds good, there’s more — lots more. Let’s take a closer look at two of our favourite spots in this fascinating region; we know you’ll love them as much as we do.
Malerreka, the valley of valleys
For a dose of pristine nature and an authentic countryside vibe, head straight for the Malerreka Valleys. South of Bidasoa, this area is demarcated by the valleys of Santesteban and Basaburua Menor.
Here you’ll discover an idyllic pastoral landscape of oak forests, fields, hedgerows and a tracery of sparkling streams fed by the Ezkurra and Ezpelura rivers. Its sleepy towns and villages with their quaintly charming old houses will have you mulling a simpler way of life. And bring your hiking boots: in this incredibly picturesque region, some of the most mind-blowing views can only be accessed on foot.
The Baztán Valley
In northwest Navarre lies the Baztán Valley, extravagantly green and one of the finest spots in all the region. While visitors marvel at its jaw-dropping scenery, don’t overlook its historic towns — they pack a powerful cultural punch.
Elizondo, with its beautiful traditional Navarran houses, Txokoto Dam and famous bridge, gives us one of the classic images of the Baztán Valley area. Lovers of artisan chocolate won’t want to miss out on a visit to Pastelería Malkorra, the place to go for “urrakin egina” — hunks of fine dark chocolate nubbly with hazelnuts grown here in the valley.
The stone houses of Arizkun. Historically, Arizkun has been one of the most influential towns in the area. A social and economic nerve-centre for hundreds of years, it is also notable for its genteel architecture and well-preserved local traditions, handed down through countless generations. The town is home to a convent of cloistered nuns of the Order of Saint Clare who are the custodians of an unusual neoclassical organ with a special register, known as “Basque flute”, that creates an intense, mellow sound unique in Navarre.
Just a short distance away is Santxotena Museum Park, a symbiosis of nature and art that pays tribute to the Agotes, a minority social group who endured centuries of prejudice and persecution. The entirely open-air museum puts woodwork centre stage, in honour of these forest-dwelling artisans.
South of the Otsondo mountain pass, Amaiur is the last Baztán village on the route from Pamplona to Baiona. Our first impression is of the church which has stood here since the Middle Ages, restored using stone from the ruined castle that once towered over the village. Walking up the street past the church, we come to an imposing semi-circular arch that serves as a gateway to the village. Among a wealth of interesting buildings, look out for Palacio de Borda and Palacio de Arretxea, two magnificent aristocratic residences dating from the 17th century.
If you’re looking for an other-worldly experience, we can recommend the Urdax Caves, also known as the Ikaburu Caves. This ancient cave system has been in constant formation for several hundred thousand years, thanks to the erosive powers of the Urtxume River. Take the guided tour and discover a secret galaxy of stalagmites and stalactites, peopled by legendary characters, guerrilla warriors and smugglers of times gone by.
